RETRO REFINEMENT is an ongoing message that continues to romance and reinterpret the past in ways that are extremely feminine, dramatic and quite grown-up. The look is an elegant and pulled-together one that keys into curvy tailoring and theatrical detail, which favors coats, suits and dresses. The strongest periods to reference are the ‘50’s and revisited 30’s.

　

MODERNITY touches on the undercurrent of the ‘60’s, but redefines today’s direction as modern, minimal and relevant, not space age. Simplified shapes include the modified A-line and rectangle as viable and pertinent to the “au courant” look of today, though touched by the past.

MODERNITY touches on the undercurrent of the ‘60’s, but redefines today’s direction as modern, minimal and relevant, not space age. Simplified shapes include the modified A-line and rectangle as viable and pertinent to the “au courant” look of today, though touched by the past.






WOMANLY WILES continue the interest in femininity, but moves from the young and girlish to a more elegant, womanly look that is less frilly than in past seasons. The hour glass silhouette and curve-enhancing details are essential, with a spotlight on waist emphasis, belting and pleats or gathers that are interpreted for coats, suits, dresses and a myriad of shapely skirt options.

 

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COLOR

For Fall, the overall direction is geared towards a palette that is harmonious and designed to please the feminine eye. A balance is found between modernity and gathered historical and natural references. Textural, patina-rich surfaces give dimension to the darkest colors. Rich and natural colors are fresh yet familiar. The introduction of real color continues, but it is becoming more subtle and softened, yet still remains sophisticated.

Purple and Wine hues lose none of their momentum and continue to expand into a myriad of variations from deep plum and berry to rich, royal purples on to shades of wine that range from deep burgundy and cabernet to lightened pinot noir and zinfandel.

Greens are softer and ecologically sound, affected either by the warmth of brown or the coolness of blue. Brown influences yellow and green, creating subtle golden and olive tones.

Blue comes into the season off a very successful run from spring that continues with aquatic blues and into deeper, more saturated shades that grow in importance from teal to violet. The continuation of blue denim underscores the importance of denim-friendly blues.

Natural neutrals and browns are important, from rich tan to maple and dark peat. True winter neutrals, particularly in white, refresh and cool the palette.

Tinted greys grow in importance. Black is the deepest charcoal rather than true black and shares the dark side with a whole palette of mysterious dark, shadowy shades of plum, brown and navy as well as sophisticated variations ranging from steel to gunmetal with warm white accents.

A Pale, softened palette of tonal berry, pink, rose, pale orange, peach and tender lavender are accented with pale copper tones and have a faded gentleness.







SHAPE AND PROPORTION

THE NEW VOLUME – A continuing focus on more voluminous shapes influences details that are rounded and inflated. The fullness is dominant for skirts, dresses, coats and even pants. Look to balloon shapes with cupped or rolled-under hemlines, as well as dirndl effects and tulip shapes with gathering and pleat details over the hip that narrow or peg to the hemline. In dresses and coats, the pegged bottom is often combined with an empire waist for an oval shape. Full or puffed sleeves are also essential for top-heavy volume.

SLIM EFFECTS – Long-lined slim silhouettes lengthen the body. Skinny pant styles often resemble stovepipe looks and work well when tucked into boots. Pencil-slim shapes for skirts, dresses and coats range from just below the knee to newer mid-calf, maxi and ankle lengths.

DRAMATIC DETAILS – There is a new interest in collar and neckline treatments that often reference couture for inspiration. Cape-let and shawl collars or cowl-style necks that slope over the natural shoulder often emphasize a softer line and combine with an hourglass silhouette while over-scaled, stiffened collars and lapel effects combine with a bolder square-cut shoulder and boxier cuts.

CROP-IT – Abbreviated short-cut items continue to draw the eye upwards and create interesting proportions. Key to this look are cropped jackets, miniskirts and short dresses and cropped pants (which look best when worn with a heel or a boot). Balance is essential to making this look appealing – either worn with two short-cut items together, or for a more directional look, a shorter item paired with a longer one.

TOTALLY WAISTED – Carried on from “Spring”, not the newest but continuing as one of the most dominant and commercial silhouettes is the hourglass shape. Often taking its cues from the ‘50’s, bottom-heavy volume is played against a nipped or belted waist for a womanly effect. Rounded shoulders and dramatic collars also reference the ‘50’s while padded, sharp shoulders offer a more modern take on this look.

FABRIC, PRINT AND PATTERN

From the classic and traditional to the fanciful and folkloric, this season’s fabrics remain a vital element in creating a sense of newness. The changes may be subtle in some basic areas with evolving stories, or a bit more eccentric in the use of pattern and print and decoration. Key trends to watch for include…

PLAID – From blanket and over-sized plaids to classic but not always traditional tartans, the message is very strong. Ombre designs and bias cuts along with mixed patterns and scales look newest.




MENSWEAR PATTERNS – The classics are redefined; glens, checks, hounds-tooth and herringbones are revitalized this season.

STRIPES – Man-style rep and chalk stripes or novelty looks in velvet abound. Chalk and pinstripes in sophisticated wool suiting’s or in blends create a more casual mood.


JACQUARDS – An ongoing story that still has merit. Geometric designs move forward. Look for intricate paisleys, sequins for decoration and engineered patterns with metallic yarns.

BASICS – Flannels, Shetlands, luxe blends, felted cloth (for a modern edge) and weave effects create subtle pattern work.

CASUAL CLOTHES – Washes, pigment dyes and treated surfaces are areas of interest. Washed denim in new colors and classic denim for premium styles continue.

SECOND SKIN – Real or faux, fashion’s love affair with skins continues in trims or total garments. Look for mink, broadtail and astrakhan for newness, as well as embroidered and embellished Sherpa and suede. Leather and skins are colorized or natural.

KNITS – Fluid jerseys in silk or synthetic blends create a feminine mood. Double-knit and double faced variations take on a modern edge.

SHIMMER AND SHINE – Iridescent color ways, crisp structured satin, silks and synthetic blends look newest when worn in combination with flat finished and textured daytime fabrics. Charmeuse remains a basic.

VELVET – Look for cotton velveteen in rich colors, silk or rayon variations and fluid panne in silk or synthetic.

LACE – Lace appears allover, as trim, and as an appliqué or detail, from lightweight and cobwebby to heavy gauge wool or synthetic.

EMBELLISHMENTS – Applied trims and add-ons (such as crewel embroidery, flocking, encrusted jewels and sequins, jacquard ribbons and grommets) continue to decorate all classifications.

PRINT AND PATTERN – A collage of color, texture and pattern continues to create a global mix with a melting pot of styles to choose from, including paisleys, patchwork, flowers, folkloric prints and effects, fur mixes, embellishments, embroidery and decoration; elaborate accessories complete the look.



SILHOUETTES COATS & TOPPERS

THE CAPE – Trench and swing-back effects ∙ Piping and banding ∙ Armhole Slits ∙ Belting for waist definition ∙ Piecing and patching for visual interest.

WAIST EMPHASIS – Shapely fit n’ flare silhouettes ∙ Self or contrast belting ∙ Enlarged collar effects ∙ Rounded or soft shoulders.

THE BORDER COAT – Wide bands of fabric ∙ Collars, cuffs and hems ∙ Fur, velvet and decoration.

THE DRAMATIC COAT – Detailing the references retro couture ∙ Exaggerated collars and lapels ∙ Full-blown sleeves ∙ Stand and funnel necks ∙ Concealed asymmetric closures.

THE UNIFORM COAT – Classic British trench detailing ∙ Brass buttons, epaulettes, closures ∙ Exaggerated collars and lapels ∙ Hourglass with seamed or belted waist emphasis ∙ Newest is the square-cut silhouette.

THE DECORATED COAT – Appliqués and crochet ∙ Piping and banding ∙ Fur trim ∙ Metallic effects ∙ Embroideries ∙ Jewels.

THE SECOND SKIN COAT – Unexpected leather colors and metallicized shades ∙ Stenciled animal patterns: leopard, zebra ∙ Embroidered and embellished Sherpa and suede ∙ Patchwork suede ∙ Leather or skin trimmed with fur ∙ Mink, broadtail, and astrakhan.

THE FANCY COAT – Prints and patterns ∙ Jacquards: newest in geometric form, decorated or engineered ∙ Plaids and menswear patterns ∙ Folkloric.

JACKETS

THE DRAMATIC JACKET – Retro couture-inspired ∙ Exaggerated detailing: collars, cuffs, necklines, bows ∙ Nipped waists, self or contrast belting ∙ Cropped and boxy.

THE SHORT JACKET – Curvy, nipped waists ∙ Concealed plackets ∙ Multi-button closures ∙ Double-breasted styling ∙ Directional: extreme abbreviated looks to layer.

THE BELTED JACKET – Self or contrast belting ∙ Empire or dropped waist ∙ Wrap detail, buckles ∙ Natural waist.

THE UNIFORM JACKET – Classic uniform detailing: brass buttons, epaulettes ∙ Long, double-breasted, some cutaway ∙ Shorter, single-breasted and shaped ∙ Blouson/tied and belted.



THE DECORATED JACKET – Embroideries and appliqués ∙ Jewels and beading ∙ Soutache ∙ Fringe ∙ Fur trim ∙ Fabric piecing.


THE PRINTED AND PATTERNED JACKET – Jacquards ∙ Plaids and menswear patterns ∙ Folkloric ∙ Print and pattern borders.

THE SECOND SKIN JACKET – Waxed and shiny patent leather ∙ Tooled leather ∙ Astrakhan, mink, broadtail ∙ Embroidered and embellished Sherpa and suede ∙ Mixed media combinations.

THE VELVET JACKET – An “item” jacket: day to special occasion versatility ∙ Cotton Velveteen, silk or rayon variations, panne ∙ Printed or patterned ∙ Embellished or with decorative buttons.

SUITS

THE DRAMATIC SUIT – References to retro couture details and styling ∙ Hourglass shaping ∙ Exaggerated collars ∙ Kimono and bracelet-length sleeves ∙ Pencil-slim or voluminous skirts.

THE SLIM-FIT SUIT – Pencil-slim, knee-length and newer mid-calf skirts ∙ Shapely jackets: long/belted, short/curvy.

THE SHAPELY SUIT – The hourglass silhouette ∙ Shaped and short jackets ∙ Belted jackets ∙ Full or trumpet skirts at the knee or below.

THE UTILITY SUIT – Uniform style dress up ∙ Military details (epaulettes, brass buttons) and items ∙ Sailor buttons ∙ Double-breasted.

THE PANT SUIT – Gray flannel, pin stripes, glen plaids ∙ Pleated trouser styling ∙ Hip-length one-, two- and three-button jackets ∙ Curve-conscious cutaway jackets ∙ Feminized with bows on jackets and blouses ∙ Double-breasted styling with skinny pants.

THE PATTERNED SUIT – Menswear-inspired patterns: glens, checks, houndstooth, herringbone ∙ Yarn dye plaids ∙ Texture: colorful mélange mixes, nubby yarns, salt & pepper twists ∙ Contrast trim and edging for visual interest.

THE COCKTAIL SUIT – Jacquards and brocades, sometimes with metallic threads ∙ Velvet ∙ Satin ∙ Fancy trims, embroideries and appliqués.





SKIRTS

THE SKINNY SKIRT – New longer length: mid-calf ∙ Knee-length pencil ∙ Pegged proportions ∙ Button-fronts ∙ Seaming ∙ Stretch for movement.

THE NEW VOLUME – Rounded and inflated shapes look newest ∙ Hemline fullness with rolled-under or gathered hemline ∙ Bell, dirndl, tulip and bubble ∙ Soft pleats and gathers from waistband over hip area; gathered full.

THE PLEATED SKIRT – All-around or placed pleats ∙ Crystal pleats ∙ Inverted pleats. Boxed or folded pleats ∙ Stitched-down pleats.

THE TRUMPET SKIRT – Hemline movement is key ∙ Gores and godets’ ∙ Rolled-under hems ∙ Pleat detail ∙ Ruffles ∙ Loops and fringe.

THE TIERED AND GORED SKIRT – Multiple tiers ∙ Underskirts and crinolines ∙ Appliqués and trims ∙ Swingy gores and godets’ effects.

THE BORDER SKIRT – Border hemlines offer new visual interest ∙ Contrasting fabrics ∙ Fur trim ∙ Embellishment and metallic effects.

THE PATTERNED SKIRT – Plaid ∙ Menswear patterns ∙ Jacquards ∙ Paisleys, florals and folkloric.

PANTS

THE EASY PANT – Relaxed, wide legs ∙ Single- and double-breasted ∙ Deep cuff detail.

THE SKINNY PANT – Straight slim basic: ankle and extended ∙ Ski-inspired ∙ The legging (also important to layer) ∙ Tucked into boots.

THE CROPPED PANT – Slim basic ∙ Soft and wide∙ Jodhpurs ∙ Knickers.

FANCY PANTS – Jacquards and brocades ∙ Shine ∙ Decorated denim ∙ Embellishment, trim and appliqués: allover and placed ∙ Border treatments.

SWEATERS

THE CLASSICS – Cardigans: cropped or longer ∙ Updated twin sets ∙ V-necks.





THE BIG VOLUME SWEATER – Easy, tunic lengths as dresses or over leggings ∙ Straight-cut boxy shapes ∙ Banded bottoms and blouson effects ∙ Deep V-necks to layer ∙ Fuller sleeves and dramatic cowl necklines.

THE TEXTURED SWEATER – Aran knits ∙ Lacy pointelles ∙ Popcorns and pomes ∙ Cables.

THE DECORATED SWEATER – Embroideries ∙ Appliqués ∙ Sequins ∙ Jewels and metal effects (studs and grommets) ∙ Fur trims.

THE FOLK SWEATER – Look to Middle European nations, Russia and Scandinavia for pattern and inspiration ∙ Intarsia’s ∙ Snowflake patterns ∙ Updated fair isles and argyles.

TOPS

THE BIG SLEEVE - Voluminous sleeve shapes are directional ∙ Balloon ∙ Puffed ∙ Varying degrees of fullness and length.

THE BOW DETAIL – Long neck-ties to tie in a bow or leave loose ∙ Ascot effects ∙ Bow waist sashes.

THE FRILLY DETAIL – Ruffled plackets and tuxedo effects ∙ Wrapovers and asymmetric styles with ruffles ∙ Ruffled yoke treatments ∙ Tiered ruffles.

THE EMPIRE AND BABY DOLL – At- and under-the-bust detailing ∙ Further enhanced with trim ∙ Peplums ∙ Yoke detailing.

THE LUXE TOP – Lace: allover and placed ∙ Sheer ∙ Layered looks ∙ Embellished . Satin ∙ Velvet.

THE DECORATED TOP – Appliqués and embroideries ∙ Jewels, sequins, beads ∙ Ribbon banding ∙ Laser treatments and cutwork.

THE NOT-SO-BASIC SHIRT – Fashion white: voluminous, tuxedo, tucks and pleats, printed ∙ Embroidered and embellished ∙ Yoke treatments∙ Half-sleeve ∙ Interesting cuff detail.

THE PRINTED AND PATTERNED TOP – Plaids ∙ Geometrics ∙ Stripes ∙ Folkloric and paisleys ∙ Mixed media prints ∙ Florals and leaves.






DRESSES

THE LONG DRESS – Tea-length to floor-sweeping ∙ Draped affects ∙ Plunging necklines: V- and U-shapes ∙ Ruffles ∙ Empire detailing.

THE EASY VOLUME DRESS – Fullness easing from waist, hip or bust ∙ Turned-under and gathered hemline ∙ Bubble and bell shapes ∙ Pegged hemlines ∙ Dirndl looks.

THE HOURGLASS DRESS – Pleated ∙ Seamed ∙ Torso-defined ∙ Chiffon and satin ∙ Jersey knits.

THE EMPIRE DRESS – At- and under-the-bust detailing ∙ Wrapping ∙ Banding ∙ Pleating and gathers ∙ Belting.

THE DRAPED DRESS – Draped cowls ∙ Wrapped and tied ∙ Ruching ∙ Shirring.

THE DECORATED DRESS – Crystals, sequins and metal effects ∙ Appliqués and embroideries ∙ Jewels ∙ Ribbons and banding.

THE LUXE DRESS – Lace and cutwork ∙ Lame ∙ Sheers ∙ Velvet ∙ Satin.

THE PRINTED DRESS – Floral: allover or placed ∙ Paisleys ∙ Geometrics∙ Prints and jacquards.

THE RETRO DRESS – Strong inspiration from the 20’s and 60’s - Hip-orientated detailing ∙ Modern shifts and sheaths ∙ Abbreviated lengths ∙ Graphic black-and-white effects ∙ Geometric patterns.

ACCESSORIES

BAGS – Elegant styling continues with more of a practical approach. Look for: Dainty structured frames ∙ Carryall ∙ Short-handled satchels ∙ Softly-gathered pouch styles ∙ Hardware: studs and grommets but less fussy ∙ Attached mini-purses ∙ Croco and luxe skins continue ∙ Train cases with bold zippers ∙ Luxe materials: fur and velvet ∙ Stenciled and printed suede/leather ∙ Printed satin. Metal chain and bead handles/straps ∙ Contrast surfaces and finishes.

BELTS – Statement-making buckles: large squares, rectangles and novelty looks ∙ Ribbons and sashes ∙ Wide wraps and double wraps ∙ Skinny widths ∙ Croco, crystals, satin and high-shine leather ∙ Wide, couture looks with double buckles ∙ Velvet and braided looks for special occasion ∙ Bead embellishment ∙ Practical pocket and purse belts.






JEWELRY – Obvious costume looks: brooches, dangling earrings, diamante ∙ Bold, layered necks: chains are important to mix ∙ Long, semi-precious, pearls, chains and discs ∙ Vintage inspiration remains strong ∙ Maltese crosses, gemstones and pearls ∙ Y-shapes return.

HATS – Newsboys and engineers ∙ Eastern European influences∙ Fur ∙ Chunky knit caps ∙ Chic berets ∙ Outdoor and lumberjack-inspired ∙ Retro ‘60’s caps.

FALL EXTRAS – Fur: scarves and wraps ∙ Skinny scarves ∙ Textured knits ∙ Gloves: short and fingerless ∙ Neck, arm and leg warmers.

FOOTWEAR
In general, footwear is becoming more relaxed and more simplified. Heels are chunkier and thicker, toes are bulkier and continue to be more rounded. Attention to detail is crucial. The treatment of materials and leathers and the way they’re combined is key.

SHOES – Feminized oxfords and ghillies ∙ Ankle looks finished with zippers, lacing, deep V-throats ∙ Thick, platform soles ∙ Closed or sling backs ∙ Ankle straps and wrapping . Substantial wedges: gum soles look new again ∙ Ballet-inspired flats ∙ Rounded toes ∙ Thick, chunky and cone-shaped heels.

BOOTS – Bold, buckle detailing ∙ Ankle-length booties ∙ Reptile skins: snake, lizard, eel, alligator, Croco ∙ Luxe materials: fur and velvet ∙ Flat knee-boots: pointed toes, rugged, biker-inspired ∙ Mixed media combinations for visual interest ∙ Fastening details: wide leather straps, ties, ribbons, buckles and buttons.


 

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